Saturday, July 28, 2012

Pic from Wood's Hole Hostel

BTW We are in Pearisburg VA today.

Probably the Last Blog Update

Having problems sending updates from our device, so I probably won't take time to troubleshoot before we come home.


7/12 Met Lee's husband Paul at the Hikers Inn. He gave us our mail drops and took our laundry. They also gave us some things left behind by other hikers: ice cream, beer and most importantly a soup bone for the dog.
7/13 Craig got some new Keen sandals as he wore out his soles on the trail. Nancy will wear her new ones sent by Keen because of a defect. Also got some bear bag rope as we will attempt to hang the food again when necessary. Muddy said goodbye as he and Spicerack are leaving the trail. PJs is going to only to the next town Marion VA so we could see him there. Could not find cigars in town but alas two appeared in a mail drop. Resupplied at the grocery store, and a previous thru hiker offered us a ride back to the inn. Celebrated our 500 mile mark (close enough) by eating Filet Mignon.
7/14 Packed up, headed out for breakfast, and ordered the usual (from yesterday). The server actually knew what our orders were. Arrived for the night at Saunders shelter where we met Trail Snail and Box Turtle who were first time backpackers out for a week. Also met ma'am who has been out since May.
7/15 18.5 mile hike thru White Top Mtn, nice views. Then on to Thomas Knob shelter, last mile was in the rain. Met Left Field, previously known as Queen Bee, and unidentified man with large carved walking sticks. Also met two young guys Chase and Andrew, who loved Cushie.
7/16 Hike thru the beautiful Grayson Highlands where we met some older ladies who hiked from the road, several miles over very rocky terrain with large boulders, one lady was 80 years old. The ponies approached us for food and Cushie for curiosity. Cushie was a bit overwhelmed. After that we hiked through the worst thunder and lightning storm we have been in yet. Stayed at old orchard shelter where we saw Chase and Andrew and met Rock Lobster and Waldo. Andrew gave his sleeping pad for Cushie to sleep on until he needed it for bedtime. Cushie had a siezure late at night; Waldo thought it was a bear attacking the shelter. Cushie just started having these this past January, occasionally, so we knew what was up, but it scared the daylights out of Waldo and made for a good laugh the next morning.
7/17 Hiked to Trimpi Shelter where we decided to stay. Met a nice group of section hikers where we spoke about Nancy's condition pretty much confirming it is planter fascitis. One person also stated that Nancy appeared quite at home in the woods.
7/18 Hiked out and found 2 large coolers of trail magic...cookies, candy, and popcorn! Stopped at the Partnership Shelter for an actual shower and headed to the Mt Rogers visitors center to get a shuttle to Marion. Unfortunately no dogs allowed on the shuttle so we got a taxi. Did some laundry and met a woman named Susan. She called her husband who came to the laundromat; they took us to get dinner, groceries, and drove us back to the shelter. We saw 3 of the 4 folks from the previous night. One of their party was injured and had to get off the trail. We were bitten by no-see-ums in the shelter all night.
7/19 Hiked to a settlers museum near the trail and stopped at the Barn restaurant for a small meal and dessert. Leashed Cushie outside, and the cook went out and fed her bacon, hamburger, and hot dogs. She got more food than us! Got caught in a storm on the way to the Crawfish trail campsite. For the first time, Cushie had been too hot in the sun of the exposed trail that crossed route 81, that she pooped out in the storm and needed to be coaxed the whole way but we made it as the storm was tapering off. This was probably our worst hike experience yet, as we wanted to hike fast to get out of the storm as we were on a ridge top with stiff winds and rain and we were getting cold, and could only move as fast as Cushie, but we all made it. The storm cooled her down so all was well. We were all wet in a wet tent with wet gear, but grateful to be done for the day.
7/20 Hiked thru a cow pasture and two curious calves chased Cushie. Heard thunder, did not want to repeat yesterday, and decided to hike only 7 miles to the Knot Maul shelter so we could dry out and rest from the previous18 mile hike. Met Frug, who was a nomadic sometimes train hopper, at the shelter.
7/21 Craig waited to get water and probably got the worst water source we have seen, but at least it was something. Pretty cool enclosed shelter (Chestnut Knob) right after the water source, ate lunch, then moved on. Arrived at Jenkins shelter pretty late, so we had to eat quickly and throw the bear bag rope because there was a warning about an aggressive bear. We later heard the story that a young cub smelled chocolate in a girl's tent, and he tried to get in. The girl screamed and he knocked over a couple more tents trying to run away. Not exactly agressive...
Later in the night Craig heard a noise in the shelter, and shined his headlamp on a squirrel-like animal chewing on a knot of the shelter frame. It would not stop until Craig poked it with his hiking pole. Nancy was so asleep she missed it.
7/22 Heard about a guy named TruBrit who will pick you up and take you to his Dojo (karate studio) and let you stay for free. We called him (number was posted on a tree) and he picked us up and took us to the Dollar Store for resupply first. His Dojo was nice equipped with a shower, TV, guitar, and a dog. We met a hiker named Candy Cane who was getting off the trail the next day.
7/23 TruBrit dropped us back off on the trail, gave us a business tip, and refused money that Craig offered...really great guy. He is building a mega hostel in Bastian VA next year. Arrived at first shelter and Craig fell asleep...lucky because a storm came thru, and we missed it as we stayed it out under the roof. Arrived later at Jenny Knob shelter before any major storms hit. Met Frankenboots, Firefly, and Taos.
7/24 Startled a bear while hiking; it ran off. Stopped at Dismal Falls which was dismal because of the storm that came thru; we'd hoped for a fun lunch spot, but there was a large rock overhang that provided shelter as we waited it out. Arrived at Wapiti shelter where we met Achilles who was named because of his plantar fascitis. He described his hiking experience with his extreme condition and confirmed that Nancy had the same thing, with the same exact experience, it was uncanny. He is fifty,single with no kids and he sold his business a couple years ago, and was out on the trail pondering what to do next. He mentioned that he was the kind of person whos identity is in what he does, so this has been a struggle for him. Nancy forgot this point, thought he had it made and said, "wow, so you have nothing to go back to!" Meaning he had the freedom, money and time to pursue anything he wanted to. He said thanks a lot, now I feel really bad, all the progress I made since Georgia is gone... We all laughed hard, very hard for a long time as he milked that one out. If Nancy pursues life coaching, she learned how important it is to think first before she excitedly blurts out "helpful" encouragement! But that was the best laugh we have had on the trail.
7/25 Hiked a short 7 miles to the Wood's Hole hostel near Pearisburg VA. Really cool old 1880ish place with an organic farm. We shared a meal in the main house and met the other 8 lodging for the night. We were all asked to participate in table set up and clean up. Stayed in the bunkhouse the first night because the private room was taken but we will stay in the room tomorrow. Will get a couples massage in the morning...Ahhhh.

Friday, July 27, 2012

Problem sending blog details.

Leaving for Pearisburg VA today.

Holing Up in Wood's Hole

7/12 Met Lee's husband Paul at the Hikers Inn. He gave us our mail drops and took our laundry. They also gave us some things left behind by other hikers: ice cream, beer and most imprtantly a soup bone for the dog.
7/13 Craig got some new Keen sandals as he wore out his soles on the trail. Nancy will wear her new ones sent by Keen because of a defect. Also got some bear bag rope as we will attempt to hang the food again when necessary. Muddy said goodbye as he and Spicerack are leaving the trail. PJs is going to only to the next town Marion VA so we could see him there. Could not find cigars in town but alas two appeared in a mail drop. Resupplied at the grocery store, and a previous thru hiker offered us a ride back to the inn. Celebrated our 500 mile mark (close enough) by eating Filet Mignon.
7/14 Packed up, headed out for breakfast, and ordered the usual (from yesterday). The server actually knew what our orders were. Arrived for the night at Saunders shelter where we met Trail Snail and Box Turtle who were first time backpackers out for a week. Also met ma'am who has been out since May.
7/15 18.5 mile hike thru White Top Mtn, nice views. Then on to Thomas Knob shelter, last mile was in the rain. Met Left Field, previously known as Queen Bee, and unidentified man with large carved walking sticks. Also met two young guys Chase and Andrew, who loved Cushie.
7/16 Hike thru the beautiful Grayson Highlands where we met some older ladies who hiked from the road, several miles over very rocky terrain with large boulders, one lady was 80 years old. The ponies approached us for food and Cushie for curiosity. Cushie was a bit overwhelmed. After that we hiked through the worst thunder and lightning storm we have been in yet.  Stayed at old orchard shelter where we saw Chase and Andrew and met Rock Lobster and Waldo. Andrew gave his sleeping pad for Cushie to sleep on until he needed it for bedtime. Cushie had a siezure late at night; Waldo thought it was a bear attacking the shelter.  Cushie just started having these this past January, occasionally, so we knew what was up, but it scared the daylights out of Waldo and made for a good laugh the next morning.
7/17 Hiked to Trimpi Shelter where we decided to stay. Met a nice group of section hikers where we spoke about Nancy's condition pretty much confirming it is planter fascitis. One person also stated that Nancy appeared quite at home in the woods.
7/18 Hiked out and found 2 large coolers of trail magic...cookies, candy, and popcorn! Stopped at the Partnership Shelter for an actual shower and headed to the Mt Rogers visitors center to get a shuttle to Marion. Unfortunately no dogs allowed on the shuttle so we got a taxi. Did some laundry and met a woman named Susan. She called her husband who came to the laundromat; they took us to get dinner, groceries, and drove us back to the shelter. We saw 3 of the 4 folks from the previous night. One of their party was injured and had to get off the trail. We were bitten by no-see-ums in the shelter all night.
7/19 Hiked to a settlers museum near the trail and stopped at the Barn restaurant for a small meal and dessert. Leashed Cushie outside, and the cook went out and fed her bacon, hamburger, and hot dogs. She got more food than us! Got caught in a storm on the way to the Crawfish trail campsite. For the first time, Cushie had been too hot in the sun of the exposed trail that crossed route 81, that she pooped out in the storm and needed to be coaxed the whole way but we made it as the storm was tapering off. This was probably our worst hike experience yet, as we wanted to hike fast to get out of the storm as we were on a ridge top with stiff winds and rain and we were getting cold, and could only move as fast as Cushie, but we all made it. The storm cooled her down so all was well. We were all wet in a wet tent with wet gear, but grateful to be done for the day.
7/20 Hiked thru a cow pasture and two curious  calves chased Cushie. Heard thunder, did not want to repeat yesterday, and decided to hike only 7 miles to the Knot Maul shelter so we could dry out and rest from the previous18 mile hike. Met Frug, who was a nomadic sometimes train hopper, at the shelter.
7/21 Craig waited to get water and probably got the worst water source we have seen, but at least it was something. Pretty cool enclosed shelter (Chestnut Knob) right after the water source, ate lunch, then moved on. Arrived at Jenkins shelter pretty late, so we had to eat quickly and throw the bear bag rope because there was a warning about an aggressive bear. We later heard the story that a young cub smelled chocolate in a girl's tent, and he tried to get in. The girl screamed and he knocked over a couple more tents trying to run away. Not exactly agressive...
Later in the night Craig heard a noise in the shelter, and shined his headlamp on a squirrel-like animal chewing on a knot of the shelter frame. It would not stop until Craig poked it with his hiking pole. Nancy was so asleep she missed it.
7/22 Heard about a guy named TruBrit who will pick you up and take you to his Dojo (karate studio) and let you stay for free. We called him (number was posted on a tree) and he picked us up and took us to the Dollar Store for resupply first. His Dojo was nice equipped with  a shower, TV, guitar, and a dog. We met a hiker named Candy Cane who was getting off the trail the next day.
7/23 TruBrit dropped us back off on the trail, gave us a business tip, and refused money that Craig offered...really great guy. He is building a mega hostel in Bastian VA next year. Arrived at first shelter and Craig fell asleep...lucky because a storm came thru, and we missed it as we stayed it out under the roof. Arrived later at Jenny Knob shelter before any major storms hit. Met Frankenboots, Firefly, and Taos.
7/24 Startled a bear while hiking; it ran off. Stopped at Dismal Falls which was dismal because of the storm that came thru; we'd hoped for a fun lunch spot, but there was a large rock overhang that provided shelter as we waited it out. Arrived at Wapiti shelter where we met Achilles who was named  because of his plantar fascitis. He described his hiking experience with his extreme condition and confirmed that Nancy had the same thing, with the same exact experience, it was uncanny. He is fifty,single with no kids and he sold his business a couple years ago, and was out on the trail pondering what to do next. He mentioned that he was the kind of person whos identity is in what he does, so this has been a struggle for him. Nancy forgot this point, thought he had it made and said, "wow, so you have nothing to go back to!" Meaning he had the freedom, money and time to pursue anything he wanted to. He said thanks a lot, now I feel really bad, all the progress I made since Georgia is gone... We all laughed hard, very hard for a long time as he milked that one out. If Nancy pursues life coaching, she learned how important it is to think first before she excitedly blurts out "helpful" encouragement! But that was the best laugh we have had on the trail.
7/25 Hiked a short 7 miles to the Wood's Hole hostel near Pearisburg VA. Really cool old 1880ish place with an organic farm. We shared a meal in the main house and met the other 8 lodging for the night. We were all asked to participate in table set up and clean up. Stayed in the bunkhouse the first night because the private room was taken but we will stay in the room tomorrow. Will get a couples massage in the morning...Ahhhh.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Quick stop in Bastian VA

Got a ride to resupply in Bastian by a guy (TruBrit) who offered a free night's stay as well. Details to follow in a couple days.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Day off in Damascus

7/2 Met Grim who was the caretaker of Uncle Johnny's in Erwin. Not sure if he got his trail name from his demeanor but he seemed to have a grim outlook of the present and future. Went to a Mexican Restaurant which was the only place in town that served beer with dinner.
7/3 Took shuttle to breakfast which was the most basic and cheapest meal we had ever eaten. Saw Bellows and Huck Finn before heading out to the trail. Also saw Mad Patter who decided last minute to follow us. He had earlier received some gourmet freeze dried meals from a woman, and he shared them with us at Curley Maple Gap shelter. Craig lost the bear rope in the trees so we decided to sleep with our food. Man with boys (camp group) arrived late and stayed up making noise until midnight.
7/4 Camp boys left a mess of dishes and food everywhere around the shelter, so there was no need to worry about bears or other critters coming to our tent. Hiked thru a beautiful spruce area to a shelter where we met PJs, Bear Bag, and Hover. It stormed while we were at the shelter and stopped, and so we hiked on to a tent site further down the trail. This was the first of three occurrences that we timed out the storms perfectly to stay dry.
7/5 Went through Roan Mtn State Park which was very scenic. Hiked over lovely mountain top Meadows with great views in the misty rain which reminded us of Ireland. Also stopped at the shelter where there were "Steven Kingish" flies hovering over stained mens underwear. Stayed at Stan Murray shelter.
7/6 Hiked to barn converted to hiker shelter which had the best surrounding view of any shelter. Met Muddy, Spice Rack, Bear bag and Hover.  Moved on to Mountain Harbour Hostel near Roan Mountain where they had many farm animals and dogs. Met Catchup who was a very interesting professor in Hawaii. Tented there after going out for pizza at Cloudland Pizza. This wood fired oven pizza was the best we have ever had.
7/7 Best breakfast for the buck at Mountain Harbour;  very nice hosts too. Hiked to Jones Falls and tented at Upper Laurel Fork near another waterfall. Beautiful!
7/8 Hiked off the trail to Vango hostel where there was no one, and it looked like Hickville with socks and underwear hanging on the front porch. Met our first rattlesnake that would not easily get off the trail until we pushed it with a stick. It coiled and rattled fiercely as we all ran by. We could not simply walk around it since we were on a steep traverse, thus the difficulty. Walked to Black Bear Resort and met the friendliest folks. Marcus had a dog named Belle and gave Kayenta 6 days worth of gluten free dog food (John G is probably laughing). Marcus also gave us a Mountain House breakfast. Trail magic for all! Stayed the night in a cabin.
7/9 Everyone waived goodbye as we hiked out. Someone mentioned that Craig is lean (he's down 12 pounds). Nancy has gained 5 pounds (probably muscle weight). Stopped at Laurel Fork Falls where hikers Whitey and Red Headed Stranger drowned a few days ago; prayed for them. Tented near a road.
7/10 Rainy and cold in the morning. Kayenta did not want to leave but she was outnumbered as we needed to hike almost 20 miles. Sang 99 bottles of beer to get us to the end of the last few miles; Kayenta was probably humming along to the song. Stayed at double spring shelter. Read trail journal entries that were very touching from hikers who had known Whitey and Red Headed Stranger.
7/11 Ate many blackberries; who says you can't get fresh fruit on the trail? Then a hurricane type rain arrived and completely soaked our kilts and feet. Nancy faired better above her waist with her rain roof. Arrived at a very small primitive shelter which we mistakened for an AT shelter and stayed there. We saw the AT shelter the next day.
7/12 Hiked thru some major storm blow downs and crossed the Tennessee/Virginia state line. Met day hiker Lee who was hiking south; she gave us a banana to share. Turns out she is the owner of the Inn we are staying in Damascus. Arrived at Damascus at last!

Sunday, July 8, 2012

On the Way to Damascus

Details to follow later. We stopped in Hampton TN to resupply and will hike out tomorrow. Have not been able to use cell phones in a while due to lack of coverage. Sorry if you have tried to call. Craig's cell phone charging cord may be broken, so please call Nancy's cell if you really need to get in touch with him. Email Craig for Nancy's number if necessary. We're still having fun...lots of sweat...it's been hot.
Because someone asked...Kayenta's trail name is Cushie. She likes to be comfortable after hiking all day.

Monday, July 2, 2012

Made it to Erwin TN

6/19 Pat let Nancy use her sewing machine and she made a summer underwear liner for her kilt so she could send her wool one home. Dennis gave us a nice lightweight multi-tool. Pat and Dennis drove us to the post office to mail more stuff home and to the trail head to send us off. A horse fly stung Nancy on the leg which gave her a nice welt. Stayed at Groundhog Creek Shelter.
6/20 Met Trail Maintainer offering sodas and water. Stopped at Max Patch which offered a beautiful view. Met some tourists there. Stayed at Walnut Mountain Shelter.
6/21 Craig felt temporarily nauseous after eating 5 minute grits mixed in cold water--thought they were instant grits when we purchased them. Met a hiker on Bluff Mountain who thought Nancy's pack rain roof was genius. Arrived at at Hot Springs NC and ate at the Smoky Mtn Diner. Met Otter and saw a father and son we previously met at Davenport Gap. Could not tent at campground because there was a biker (mostly Harleys) rally there that weekend--and boy we knew it--they were noisy into the wee hours of the night. We tented about a mile north on the AT which was free anyway but it was very hot that first night. Ate Dinner at Spring Creek Tavern and saw Alex (Chainsaw) Zigfoot, Otter, and the father and son.
6/22 Ate breakfast at the Smoky Mtn Diner and the sweet potato pancakes were the best. Kayenta also had sweet potatoes (canned), with Vienna sausage. Purchased a new dog backpack at Bluff Mtn Outfitters because she busted the side zipper. Had dinner at the food shack where Cliff was cooking for donation only (didn't get his restaurant license yet). Excellent!
6/23 A biker Carmen saw and loved Kayenta. We had crossed paths for the next couple days and Carmen donated $17 to the doggy treat fund. Took a hot spring bath at the resort. Toured the Sunny Bank Inn hostel...nifty old house.
6/24 Saw John and Kong (dog) in town. Decided to go to either Franklin or Hiawassee to make up the section Nancy missed. Tried to hitch a ride from the exiting bikers (some  were towing their bikes)...no takers. Paid for a shuttle to Franklin NC, and Ruth took us there. She told us that the Hot Springs locals used to hide from thru hikers because they were afraid of them because of their appearance. Hiked south to the Big Spring Shelter. Kayentas bladder let loose in the tent and the sleeping bag was full of dog urine.
6/25 Beautiful view at fire tower. Nancy had more hiking stamina than Craig, who believes it's due to lack of nourishment...Needs more Clif bars. Made it to Standing Indian Shelter where a man wondered why we hung the sleeping bag to dry. Craig said dog urine to which he replied, "That will keep the bears away". Funny!  It was tough to slide into a damp urine bag, boy did the tent reek that night.
6/26 Craig pondered changing Kayenta's trail name to Sweet Pee. Humor is good in times like these. Finished hiking the section to Hiawassee and hitched two rides to the Budget Inn in Franklin. Nancy had previously made an appointment with her Franklin chiropractor for the next morning, hitchhiking dependent.
6/27 Nancy went to the chiropractor while Craig laundered the sleeping bag at the nicest laundromat he had ever seen (E Main St). The chiropractor laughed at Nancy walking in with her backpack and called his videographer who was working on  testimonials for the chiropractor's website. Nancy agreed to do a video, and Craig and Kayenta unknowingly became a part of it later. We'll send anyone a link to this video by request. Hitched five rides to get back to Hot Springs. One of the rides was from George and Whitney who amazingly know our new Franklin friends Donn and Sandi! Another ride was from musicians Rorey Caroll and Zeb who took us to a health food store on the way to Asheville. Rorey gave us her CD but Craig accidentally left it in the vehicle. Arrived in Hot Springs for the second time, ate at Iron Horse Inn and met musician Dave who was playing his original music...very nice.
6/28 Went to Smoky Mtn Diner for the sweet potato pancakes and saw Woody and Jessica (aka MIA) again! Had a great conversation catching up with our nomadic neighbors. Hiked north out of town and had tremendous views of Hot Springs. Craig saw a bear who immediately ran after spotting either Craig or Kayenta. Stayed at Spring Mtn Shelter and met Piccadilly (I think) who was a 78 year old Greek man from NY doing a 50 mile section.
6/29 Hiked on an exposed ridgeline which was very beautiful but very strenuous and hot (temperature); almost ran out of water. Nancy found blueberries to eat. Arrived at Jerry Cabin Shelter and Craig started typing the blog while Nancy made a huge campfire. When he was done and ready for bed, some woman was walking fast toward the shelter and singing. She said, We caught you! Craig responded, Doing what? Then Craig recognized her as one of the 3 amigos Alyss (aka Bellows) from our first week. Trevor (aka Huck Finn) arrived shortly after. They caught UP to us.
6/30 Yellow jacket stung Nancy and she and Craig ran to get away in case there were more. Met a group of section hikers who petted Kayenta and noted that if a bear approached, Kayenta would snuggle the bear into submission. They were amazed at how friendly she was toward them, she greeted everyone of them. Stayed at Hog Back Ridge Shelter.
7/1 A fawn ran toward Craig on the trail. Kayenta chased it despite pleas to halt and desist. She disappeared for several minutes, then appeared and found an excellent spring to get water which we all shared. Hiked to Big Bald which had a beautiful 360° view. Stopped for lunch at Bald Mtn Shelter where a section hiker couple gave us fruit and crackers. Nancy had a tough hike day as her ankle was swollen up with the yellow jacket sting. For her this was another "true grit" day.  Stayed at Spivey Gap campsite where it stormed all night.
7/2 Hiked to Uncle Johny's Hostel in Erwin TN where we rented a cabin.